I've been moved by your many phone calls and queries about my safety in India. I'm many miles from there and feeling safe where I am in the south of India.
What's happened in Mumbai is tragic. I ask that you keep the situation and those affected in your prayers. I plan to write more about it in the coming days.
With love,
Chris
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Thursday, November 27, 2008
“Now That’s the Thanksgiving Spirit”
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of the year for 4 specific reasons
Regardless, of all the times I really miss home when I’m traveling abroad, the first is Thanksgiving and the second is Christmas. They are sad days to be away from the family – especially all the tradition that is Breitenberg holidays. And you best believe that my family loves it some tradition (ask my mom about the time she tried to change the recipe for the stuffing). I even had to fight a bit to bring in Cousin’s Chris’ Famous Pumpkin Bisque onto the menu.
Anyway, I digress. Obviously I love Thanksgiving, so I’ve been planning my Thanksgiving feast in India almost 6 weeks in advance of the holiday itself. There are three young women at Asia Plateau that coordinate the interns here, so we decided to get the AfL core team together to dinner with them. I suggested Thanksgiving. It turned out we would need to go out a week in advance. Celebrate Turkey Day twice…don’t torture me!
So we set off for Rainforest, a kiff place tucked into the plateau-side. Peerless view. My surrogate parents here, Leena and Suresh, and I ordered an epic spread. Chicken and mutton curries, tandoori chicken, chala masala, paneer tikka, mutter paneer and more garlic butter naan than you could ever want. Topped off with a round of fresh lime sodas
Before we devoured, I made sure to slow everyone down to share on the Breitenberg family tradition of passing the thanks around the table. As we gave thanks I found myself overwhelmed with gratitude for the support of my family and friends while I’m on AfL. I feel an incredible joy when I think of you all. I also feel incredibly thankful to be in a place where I can do important work for people while using my skills and natural talents. Thankful too for all of the money received by AfL. We’ve covered over 80% of our budget and are in good position to cover our needs by May. Lastly, I feel hugely grateful for the chance to be working with and around people who live their lives with faith and integrity. It’s an indescribable blessing.
After we gave thanks we dove in and I just sat in awe of the glory that is Thanksgiving (no matter where you have it in the world). People you love eating more food than they should, laughing and enjoying each other. Everyday should be thanksgiving! The conversation opened up for me to speak about the holiday, I limited the history of “Pilgrims and Indians” to focus on “The Thanksgiving Spirit”.
So much of the rest of the night turned into a judiciary review of whether actions or words were either full of “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not. It turned out to be a really fun exercise. For instance, saying that one is “too full to eat anymore” is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”. While quietly taking an extra scoop of curry is. Turning down a piece of butter naan is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while using your finger to scrape up the leftover minced garlic and butter is. Saying something like “I could stay here all night” is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while talking about responsibilities you have after the meal is not. Picking at the last spice on the tandoori chicken bone is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” and talking about dessert when you’re stuffed and still eating the main course is too.
After the meal (10 people aching-full on good food for $30 [I’m also thankful for Indian cost of living and the strong dollar]), we went back to Panchgani town and got ice cream (definitely in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”) and went to work. I even tried green chili ice cream, which is an absolutely stunning culinary treat (also in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”). It heats your tongue but cools your throat and tastes of smoky chili and sweet milk. Impressive. I only sampled it before heading on to my favorite Hilltop combo of peppermint and choco chips (which is what Indians call chocolate chocolate chip).
Bellies overwhelmed, we arrived back at AP just in time to see the whole community cranking out a dance party. Folk dances from all over the world (probably some 35 countries represented here). What an event!
But wait…what to do? The most unbelievable of Thanksgiving Spirit dilemmas: Is dancing after being totally stuffed (to the point of pain) at the Thanksgiving dinner table in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not?
Ukrainian folk dancing in India on Thanksgiving with 60 people from all over the world. Seriously, is there anything more in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”?
And what a dance it was…
- The entire point of the holiday is to be grateful for what you have
- The entire holiday is centered around family, food and hanging out
- There is no stress of shopping for gifts
- Football, parades and getting excited for Christmas
Regardless, of all the times I really miss home when I’m traveling abroad, the first is Thanksgiving and the second is Christmas. They are sad days to be away from the family – especially all the tradition that is Breitenberg holidays. And you best believe that my family loves it some tradition (ask my mom about the time she tried to change the recipe for the stuffing). I even had to fight a bit to bring in Cousin’s Chris’ Famous Pumpkin Bisque onto the menu.
Anyway, I digress. Obviously I love Thanksgiving, so I’ve been planning my Thanksgiving feast in India almost 6 weeks in advance of the holiday itself. There are three young women at Asia Plateau that coordinate the interns here, so we decided to get the AfL core team together to dinner with them. I suggested Thanksgiving. It turned out we would need to go out a week in advance. Celebrate Turkey Day twice…don’t torture me!
So we set off for Rainforest, a kiff place tucked into the plateau-side. Peerless view. My surrogate parents here, Leena and Suresh, and I ordered an epic spread. Chicken and mutton curries, tandoori chicken, chala masala, paneer tikka, mutter paneer and more garlic butter naan than you could ever want. Topped off with a round of fresh lime sodas
Before we devoured, I made sure to slow everyone down to share on the Breitenberg family tradition of passing the thanks around the table. As we gave thanks I found myself overwhelmed with gratitude for the support of my family and friends while I’m on AfL. I feel an incredible joy when I think of you all. I also feel incredibly thankful to be in a place where I can do important work for people while using my skills and natural talents. Thankful too for all of the money received by AfL. We’ve covered over 80% of our budget and are in good position to cover our needs by May. Lastly, I feel hugely grateful for the chance to be working with and around people who live their lives with faith and integrity. It’s an indescribable blessing.
After we gave thanks we dove in and I just sat in awe of the glory that is Thanksgiving (no matter where you have it in the world). People you love eating more food than they should, laughing and enjoying each other. Everyday should be thanksgiving! The conversation opened up for me to speak about the holiday, I limited the history of “Pilgrims and Indians” to focus on “The Thanksgiving Spirit”.
So much of the rest of the night turned into a judiciary review of whether actions or words were either full of “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not. It turned out to be a really fun exercise. For instance, saying that one is “too full to eat anymore” is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”. While quietly taking an extra scoop of curry is. Turning down a piece of butter naan is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while using your finger to scrape up the leftover minced garlic and butter is. Saying something like “I could stay here all night” is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while talking about responsibilities you have after the meal is not. Picking at the last spice on the tandoori chicken bone is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” and talking about dessert when you’re stuffed and still eating the main course is too.
After the meal (10 people aching-full on good food for $30 [I’m also thankful for Indian cost of living and the strong dollar]), we went back to Panchgani town and got ice cream (definitely in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”) and went to work. I even tried green chili ice cream, which is an absolutely stunning culinary treat (also in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”). It heats your tongue but cools your throat and tastes of smoky chili and sweet milk. Impressive. I only sampled it before heading on to my favorite Hilltop combo of peppermint and choco chips (which is what Indians call chocolate chocolate chip).
Bellies overwhelmed, we arrived back at AP just in time to see the whole community cranking out a dance party. Folk dances from all over the world (probably some 35 countries represented here). What an event!
But wait…what to do? The most unbelievable of Thanksgiving Spirit dilemmas: Is dancing after being totally stuffed (to the point of pain) at the Thanksgiving dinner table in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not?
Ukrainian folk dancing in India on Thanksgiving with 60 people from all over the world. Seriously, is there anything more in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”?
And what a dance it was…
Monday, November 17, 2008
Talkin' Toilets: Discovering My Voice Regarding Sanitation Issues in India
Did you think I was kidding?
There are a number of benefits that come along with living at a conference centre that’s been operating in the area for the past 40 years. One is that the people here have a million connections and now and again they work out to provide us with some unforgettable memories. Enter 2008 Toilets 2008.
We organized half of the group here to visit a couple of villages last week. The state of Maharashtra has actually done admirable work in developing the rural parts of the state. Loads of money gets poured into rural infrastructure giving some locals access to everything from decent roads and sanitation to clean water systems and telecom. Our first visit, quite brief gave us a clear a good image of a tiny and ideal strawberry farming village on the plateau ridge, home to only 40 families. Remarkably picturesque and a sparkling example of leadership. The village council (known as the Panchyat) has used seemingly every government break to boost their condition.
This trip whetted the appetite to spend more time out in the countryside. The next morning we bolted Panchgani and drove down to Wai in the Krishna Valley. On the outskirts of the small town we entered a village of almost 300 families and about 3000 people.
The pomp and circumstance of a VIP arrival in India equates to that of a college commencement processional. We arrive and are seated on freshly unfolded mats. Everyone in the group receives a garland and a coconut. In India, “Guest is God” and one can almost feel embarrassed by the amount of attention and gushing given to visitors. To be honest, it didn’t take me long to get used to this cultural beauty. On one level, I do feel that it’s undeserved, but on another, is their any reason at all to try and deny a host? I think not. And to be honest, it’s even better if you are a son. So instead of fighting any urge to shoo away this “Guest as God” business, I openly embrace and just give gracious thanks. Hey, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Fortunately, we had a chance to give back to the community by helping with a village cleanup. Litter is one of India’s black-eyes. Actually, coming from the States, the issue is shocking and pervasive. City to farming village, plastic wrappers and pieces of paper turn the serene landscapes into ugly sties of humanity. Its by far one of the things I find most frustrating here, so I leapt at the chance to lend a hand. We did well, using Indian style brooms to pile up the rubbish before lighting it all on fire. Some villagers joined in the effort and we took some encouragement from their engagement in the process.
After the warm morning and even spicier lunch, we took a needed Indian post-lunch siesta and awoke to a new task from the Panchyat. We were to become ambassadors. No, not for our countries or for the values and community we work with as AfL, but for something far more practical. We would become the spokespeople of sanitation. The fellows of flush. The experts on excrement. The idea, in brief, was to tour the village and speak to them all about the ned for toilets. The state had just imposed a law that all village homes must have a toilet facility and this village aimed to win the prize which would insure statewide recognition and some million rupees for the coffers. Un surprisingly, the Panchyat saw in us a chance and they leapt at it.
So we went on 2008 Toilets 2008. It started with disaster, as they led us (now a group of about 25) to an old woman’s home. Our fixer grabbed my Ukranian friend, Yulia, placed her in front of the old woman (bewildered and reasonably unhappy about the attention) and told her to tell the woman about why she needed a toilet. With good reason this made the group fairly uncomfortable and I immediately approached our fixer friend and said we’d need to take a different tack on our sanitation persuasion tour. He read the group’s morale completely – depleted after the first encounter – and assured me that the rest of the tour would be done “our way”. With no other choice but to trust him, most of set off again.
“Our way” turned out to be brilliant. We ended up just getting the local tour of the village of about 3,000. I’ve now probably seen every kind of village toilet available and in every stage of construction. It was most excellent to be introduced as VIP and then shown into the villager homes (very modest) and then have the village council show off their people and their wonderful toilets. I was interested, they were proud and all in all it was more or less incredible sanitation circus of good times. Not used to foreign visitors, a pack of village kids started walking with us and our processional topped out around 75 people. What an experience.
Now I know, you must ask. Did I use one of these toilets? Sad to say, I actually did not. For one, I didn’t need to go. For two, I think it would have been strange to walk into someone’s home and ask to use their toilet, especially when public toilets were available. So I missed my chance. I know this will bring a big sigh for all you epicures out there…
As our entourage returned to the main square, we were seated on the village stage and were the honored guests at a stunning cultural performance. The kids put on a major dance performance that lasted about 30-minutes (a serious workout) which explained a lot about the length of Bollywood movies (get them hooked into excessive dance at a young age) and then the real coup: sitting directly outside a circle of the village elders jamming an epic groove with tablas, a harmonium, small cymbals and a chorus of call and response. Noted throughout the region, they played for a solid 30 minutes and I soaked in every minute.
If that wasn’t enough, they gave us more coconuts and gifts before we put on a short presentation for them. It seemed the very least our weary souls could do for them.
There are a number of benefits that come along with living at a conference centre that’s been operating in the area for the past 40 years. One is that the people here have a million connections and now and again they work out to provide us with some unforgettable memories. Enter 2008 Toilets 2008.
We organized half of the group here to visit a couple of villages last week. The state of Maharashtra has actually done admirable work in developing the rural parts of the state. Loads of money gets poured into rural infrastructure giving some locals access to everything from decent roads and sanitation to clean water systems and telecom. Our first visit, quite brief gave us a clear a good image of a tiny and ideal strawberry farming village on the plateau ridge, home to only 40 families. Remarkably picturesque and a sparkling example of leadership. The village council (known as the Panchyat) has used seemingly every government break to boost their condition.
This trip whetted the appetite to spend more time out in the countryside. The next morning we bolted Panchgani and drove down to Wai in the Krishna Valley. On the outskirts of the small town we entered a village of almost 300 families and about 3000 people.
The pomp and circumstance of a VIP arrival in India equates to that of a college commencement processional. We arrive and are seated on freshly unfolded mats. Everyone in the group receives a garland and a coconut. In India, “Guest is God” and one can almost feel embarrassed by the amount of attention and gushing given to visitors. To be honest, it didn’t take me long to get used to this cultural beauty. On one level, I do feel that it’s undeserved, but on another, is their any reason at all to try and deny a host? I think not. And to be honest, it’s even better if you are a son. So instead of fighting any urge to shoo away this “Guest as God” business, I openly embrace and just give gracious thanks. Hey, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Fortunately, we had a chance to give back to the community by helping with a village cleanup. Litter is one of India’s black-eyes. Actually, coming from the States, the issue is shocking and pervasive. City to farming village, plastic wrappers and pieces of paper turn the serene landscapes into ugly sties of humanity. Its by far one of the things I find most frustrating here, so I leapt at the chance to lend a hand. We did well, using Indian style brooms to pile up the rubbish before lighting it all on fire. Some villagers joined in the effort and we took some encouragement from their engagement in the process.
After the warm morning and even spicier lunch, we took a needed Indian post-lunch siesta and awoke to a new task from the Panchyat. We were to become ambassadors. No, not for our countries or for the values and community we work with as AfL, but for something far more practical. We would become the spokespeople of sanitation. The fellows of flush. The experts on excrement. The idea, in brief, was to tour the village and speak to them all about the ned for toilets. The state had just imposed a law that all village homes must have a toilet facility and this village aimed to win the prize which would insure statewide recognition and some million rupees for the coffers. Un surprisingly, the Panchyat saw in us a chance and they leapt at it.
So we went on 2008 Toilets 2008. It started with disaster, as they led us (now a group of about 25) to an old woman’s home. Our fixer grabbed my Ukranian friend, Yulia, placed her in front of the old woman (bewildered and reasonably unhappy about the attention) and told her to tell the woman about why she needed a toilet. With good reason this made the group fairly uncomfortable and I immediately approached our fixer friend and said we’d need to take a different tack on our sanitation persuasion tour. He read the group’s morale completely – depleted after the first encounter – and assured me that the rest of the tour would be done “our way”. With no other choice but to trust him, most of set off again.
“Our way” turned out to be brilliant. We ended up just getting the local tour of the village of about 3,000. I’ve now probably seen every kind of village toilet available and in every stage of construction. It was most excellent to be introduced as VIP and then shown into the villager homes (very modest) and then have the village council show off their people and their wonderful toilets. I was interested, they were proud and all in all it was more or less incredible sanitation circus of good times. Not used to foreign visitors, a pack of village kids started walking with us and our processional topped out around 75 people. What an experience.Now I know, you must ask. Did I use one of these toilets? Sad to say, I actually did not. For one, I didn’t need to go. For two, I think it would have been strange to walk into someone’s home and ask to use their toilet, especially when public toilets were available. So I missed my chance. I know this will bring a big sigh for all you epicures out there…
As our entourage returned to the main square, we were seated on the village stage and were the honored guests at a stunning cultural performance. The kids put on a major dance performance that lasted about 30-minutes (a serious workout) which explained a lot about the length of Bollywood movies (get them hooked into excessive dance at a young age) and then the real coup: sitting directly outside a circle of the village elders jamming an epic groove with tablas, a harmonium, small cymbals and a chorus of call and response. Noted throughout the region, they played for a solid 30 minutes and I soaked in every minute.
If that wasn’t enough, they gave us more coconuts and gifts before we put on a short presentation for them. It seemed the very least our weary souls could do for them.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Factory Visit
Last week I visited a factory in Pune called Forbes-Marshall. It's a respected industrial house in India and they are major manufacturer and exporter of boilers and pressure gauges (among her related products). As far as factory visits go, its wasn't the most stimulating (I've much preferred other visits to the Tata Truck factory and the Crayola Crayon factory in Easton, PA), but every factory interests me, regardless of its final product.
I've identified this interest in the very basic concept of what a factory accomplishes. Its takes elements and puts them together in specific way to create a new and more highly refined element. It takes a bunch of little parts and creates something new by adding unique. Not only that, but it all happens in the physical realm. I'm sometimes discouraged working in the "ideas" market where the results of my work can't always be seen. I'm often envious of those who work with materials. Who can see there product being developed in tangible ways. It's exactly this reality that made my short stint building a house in Va Beach so rewarding.
Factories also have a really interesting sense of the asthetic, and I've take a couple photos to show you here what I mean.
Aside from production, Indian factories have their own little qualities that add a little spice. I found one such quality in the safety posters printed on the walls of the factory floor. Most workers communicate in the native Maharashtran language of Marathi. I can't read a word of the script, so it gave me the chance to have some fun developing my own captions for these gems.
#1
Just keep yelling at everyone and point your finger at them angrily. This will help get your questions answered with excitement!
#2
When you talk to the fork-lift driver, be sure to use hand gestures. This will make him happy. But don't do the one where you raise both hands over your head. This will cause a disaster!
#3
When cooking tomato soup, be sure to use an oversized vacuum cleaner or else you will turn into a cross between Papa Smurf and Gargamel!
Your captions are very much welcomed to these photos as well.
All in all it was another educational experience in India. Next entry even more so... Talkin' Toilets: Discovering My Voice Regarding Sanitation Issues in India.
I've identified this interest in the very basic concept of what a factory accomplishes. Its takes elements and puts them together in specific way to create a new and more highly refined element. It takes a bunch of little parts and creates something new by adding unique. Not only that, but it all happens in the physical realm. I'm sometimes discouraged working in the "ideas" market where the results of my work can't always be seen. I'm often envious of those who work with materials. Who can see there product being developed in tangible ways. It's exactly this reality that made my short stint building a house in Va Beach so rewarding.
Factories also have a really interesting sense of the asthetic, and I've take a couple photos to show you here what I mean.
Aside from production, Indian factories have their own little qualities that add a little spice. I found one such quality in the safety posters printed on the walls of the factory floor. Most workers communicate in the native Maharashtran language of Marathi. I can't read a word of the script, so it gave me the chance to have some fun developing my own captions for these gems.#1
Just keep yelling at everyone and point your finger at them angrily. This will help get your questions answered with excitement!#2
When you talk to the fork-lift driver, be sure to use hand gestures. This will make him happy. But don't do the one where you raise both hands over your head. This will cause a disaster!#3
When cooking tomato soup, be sure to use an oversized vacuum cleaner or else you will turn into a cross between Papa Smurf and Gargamel!Your captions are very much welcomed to these photos as well.
All in all it was another educational experience in India. Next entry even more so... Talkin' Toilets: Discovering My Voice Regarding Sanitation Issues in India.
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