Safe

I've been moved by your many phone calls and queries about my safety in India. I'm many miles from there and feeling safe where I am in the south of India.

What's happened in Mumbai is tragic. I ask that you keep the situation and those affected in your prayers. I plan to write more about it in the coming days.

With love,

Chris

“Now That’s the Thanksgiving Spirit”

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of the year for 4 specific reasons

1. The entire point of the holiday is to be grateful for what you have
   
2. The entire holiday is centered around family, food and hanging out
   
3. There is no stress of shopping for gifts
4. Football, parades and getting excited for Christmas
   

The only thing missing from Thanksgiving is music and for all the crappy music Americans are capable of writing, performing and producing, I’m still shocked that Thanksgiving still remains carol-less. It maybe be something I need to change someday.

Regardless, of all the times I really miss home when I’m traveling abroad, the first is Thanksgiving and the second is Christmas. They are sad days to be away from the family – especially all the tradition that is Breitenberg holidays. And you best believe that my family loves it some tradition (ask my mom about the time she tried to change the recipe for the stuffing). I even had to fight a bit to bring in Cousin’s Chris’ Famous Pumpkin Bisque onto the menu.

Anyway, I digress. Obviously I love Thanksgiving, so I’ve been planning my Thanksgiving feast in India almost 6 weeks in advance of the holiday itself. There are three young women at Asia Plateau that coordinate the interns here, so we decided to get the AfL core team together to dinner with them. I suggested Thanksgiving. It turned out we would need to go out a week in advance. Celebrate Turkey Day twice…don’t torture me!

So we set off for Rainforest, a kiff place tucked into the plateau-side. Peerless view. My surrogate parents here, Leena and Suresh, and I ordered an epic spread. Chicken and mutton curries, tandoori chicken, chala masala, paneer tikka, mutter paneer and more garlic butter naan than you could ever want. Topped off with a round of fresh lime sodas

Before we devoured, I made sure to slow everyone down to share on the Breitenberg family tradition of passing the thanks around the table. As we gave thanks I found myself overwhelmed with gratitude for the support of my family and friends while I’m on AfL. I feel an incredible joy when I think of you all. I also feel incredibly thankful to be in a place where I can do important work for people while using my skills and natural talents. Thankful too for all of the money received by AfL. We’ve covered over 80% of our budget and are in good position to cover our needs by May. Lastly, I feel hugely grateful for the chance to be working with and around people who live their lives with faith and integrity. It’s an indescribable blessing.

After we gave thanks we dove in and I just sat in awe of the glory that is Thanksgiving (no matter where you have it in the world). People you love eating more food than they should, laughing and enjoying each other. Everyday should be thanksgiving! The conversation opened up for me to speak about the holiday, I limited the history of “Pilgrims and Indians” to focus on “The Thanksgiving Spirit”.

So much of the rest of the night turned into a judiciary review of whether actions or words were either full of “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not. It turned out to be a really fun exercise. For instance, saying that one is “too full to eat anymore” is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”. While quietly taking an extra scoop of curry is. Turning down a piece of butter naan is not in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while using your finger to scrape up the leftover minced garlic and butter is. Saying something like “I could stay here all night” is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” while talking about responsibilities you have after the meal is not. Picking at the last spice on the tandoori chicken bone is in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” and talking about dessert when you’re stuffed and still eating the main course is too.

After the meal (10 people aching-full on good food for $30 [I’m also thankful for Indian cost of living and the strong dollar]), we went back to Panchgani town and got ice cream (definitely in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”) and went to work. I even tried green chili ice cream, which is an absolutely stunning culinary treat (also in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”). It heats your tongue but cools your throat and tastes of smoky chili and sweet milk. Impressive. I only sampled it before heading on to my favorite Hilltop combo of peppermint and choco chips (which is what Indians call chocolate chocolate chip).
Bellies overwhelmed, we arrived back at AP just in time to see the whole community cranking out a dance party. Folk dances from all over the world (probably some 35 countries represented here). What an event!

But wait…what to do? The most unbelievable of Thanksgiving Spirit dilemmas: Is dancing after being totally stuffed (to the point of pain) at the Thanksgiving dinner table in “The Thanksgiving Spirit” or not?

Ukrainian folk dancing in India on Thanksgiving with 60 people from all over the world. Seriously, is there anything more in “The Thanksgiving Spirit”?

And what a dance it was…

Talkin' Toilets: Discovering My Voice Regarding Sanitation Issues in India

Did you think I was kidding?

There are a number of benefits that come along with living at a conference centre that’s been operating in the area for the past 40 years. One is that the people here have a million connections and now and again they work out to provide us with some unforgettable memories. Enter 2008 Toilets 2008.

We organized half of the group here to visit a couple of villages last week. The state of Maharashtra has actually done admirable work in developing the rural parts of the state. Loads of money gets poured into rural infrastructure giving some locals access to everything from decent roads and sanitation to clean water systems and telecom. Our first visit, quite brief gave us a clear a good image of a tiny and ideal strawberry farming village on the plateau ridge, home to only 40 families. Remarkably picturesque and a sparkling example of leadership. The village council (known as the Panchyat) has used seemingly every government break to boost their condition.

This trip whetted the appetite to spend more time out in the countryside. The next morning we bolted Panchgani and drove down to Wai in the Krishna Valley. On the outskirts of the small town we entered a village of almost 300 families and about 3000 people.

The pomp and circumstance of a VIP arrival in India equates to that of a college commencement processional. We arrive and are seated on freshly unfolded mats. Everyone in the group receives a garland and a coconut. In India, “Guest is God” and one can almost feel embarrassed by the amount of attention and gushing given to visitors. To be honest, it didn’t take me long to get used to this cultural beauty. On one level, I do feel that it’s undeserved, but on another, is their any reason at all to try and deny a host? I think not. And to be honest, it’s even better if you are a son. So instead of fighting any urge to shoo away this “Guest as God” business, I openly embrace and just give gracious thanks. Hey, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Fortunately, we had a chance to give back to the community by helping with a village cleanup. Litter is one of India’s black-eyes. Actually, coming from the States, the issue is shocking and pervasive. City to farming village, plastic wrappers and pieces of paper turn the serene landscapes into ugly sties of humanity. Its by far one of the things I find most frustrating here, so I leapt at the chance to lend a hand. We did well, using Indian style brooms to pile up the rubbish before lighting it all on fire. Some villagers joined in the effort and we took some encouragement from their engagement in the process.

After the warm morning and even spicier lunch, we took a needed Indian post-lunch siesta and awoke to a new task from the Panchyat. We were to become ambassadors. No, not for our countries or for the values and community we work with as AfL, but for something far more practical. We would become the spokespeople of sanitation. The fellows of flush. The experts on excrement. The idea, in brief, was to tour the village and speak to them all about the ned for toilets. The state had just imposed a law that all village homes must have a toilet facility and this village aimed to win the prize which would insure statewide recognition and some million rupees for the coffers. Un surprisingly, the Panchyat saw in us a chance and they leapt at it.

So we went on 2008 Toilets 2008. It started with disaster, as they led us (now a group of about 25) to an old woman’s home. Our fixer grabbed my Ukranian friend, Yulia, placed her in front of the old woman (bewildered and reasonably unhappy about the attention) and told her to tell the woman about why she needed a toilet. With good reason this made the group fairly uncomfortable and I immediately approached our fixer friend and said we’d need to take a different tack on our sanitation persuasion tour. He read the group’s morale completely – depleted after the first encounter – and assured me that the rest of the tour would be done “our way”. With no other choice but to trust him, most of set off again.

“Our way” turned out to be brilliant. We ended up just getting the local tour of the village of about 3,000. I’ve now probably seen every kind of village toilet available and in every stage of construction. It was most excellent to be introduced as VIP and then shown into the villager homes (very modest) and then have the village council show off their people and their wonderful toilets. I was interested, they were proud and all in all it was more or less incredible sanitation circus of good times. Not used to foreign visitors, a pack of village kids started walking with us and our processional topped out around 75 people. What an experience.

Now I know, you must ask. Did I use one of these toilets? Sad to say, I actually did not. For one, I didn’t need to go. For two, I think it would have been strange to walk into someone’s home and ask to use their toilet, especially when public toilets were available. So I missed my chance. I know this will bring a big sigh for all you epicures out there…

As our entourage returned to the main square, we were seated on the village stage and were the honored guests at a stunning cultural performance. The kids put on a major dance performance that lasted about 30-minutes (a serious workout) which explained a lot about the length of Bollywood movies (get them hooked into excessive dance at a young age) and then the real coup: sitting directly outside a circle of the village elders jamming an epic groove with tablas, a harmonium, small cymbals and a chorus of call and response. Noted throughout the region, they played for a solid 30 minutes and I soaked in every minute.

If that wasn’t enough, they gave us more coconuts and gifts before we put on a short presentation for them. It seemed the very least our weary souls could do for them.

Factory Visit

Last week I visited a factory in Pune called Forbes-Marshall. It's a respected industrial house in India and they are major manufacturer and exporter of boilers and pressure gauges (among her related products). As far as factory visits go, its wasn't the most stimulating (I've much preferred other visits to the Tata Truck factory and the Crayola Crayon factory in Easton, PA), but every factory interests me, regardless of its final product.

I've identified this interest in the very basic concept of what a factory accomplishes. Its takes elements and puts them together in specific way to create a new and more highly refined element. It takes a bunch of little parts and creates something new by adding unique. Not only that, but it all happens in the physical realm. I'm sometimes discouraged working in the "ideas" market where the results of my work can't always be seen. I'm often envious of those who work with materials. Who can see there product being developed in tangible ways. It's exactly this reality that made my short stint building a house in Va Beach so rewarding.

Factories also have a really interesting sense of the asthetic, and I've take a couple photos to show you here what I mean.

Aside from production, Indian factories have their own little qualities that add a little spice. I found one such quality in the safety posters printed on the walls of the factory floor. Most workers communicate in the native Maharashtran language of Marathi. I can't read a word of the script, so it gave me the chance to have some fun developing my own captions for these gems.

#1

Just keep yelling at everyone and point your finger at them angrily. This will help get your questions answered with excitement!












#2

When you talk to the fork-lift driver, be sure to use hand gestures. This will make him happy. But don't do the one where you raise both hands over your head. This will cause a disaster!









#3

When cooking tomato soup, be sure to use an oversized vacuum cleaner or else you will turn into a cross between Papa Smurf and Gargamel!












Your captions are very much welcomed to these photos as well.

All in all it was another educational experience in India. Next entry even more so... Talkin' Toilets: Discovering My Voice Regarding Sanitation Issues in India.

A New Hope

40 people cheered today when I said two words: “Obama won.”

I didn’t shout it. It was more matter-of-fact, but 40 people, of all ages, from over 20 different countries, in India, started to clap and holler the moment I spoke.

It threw me a bit. I knew that people here wanted Obama to win the election, but the look of delight and excitement that spread through the room rushed at me. I glowed.

I heard two really fascinating comments throughout the course of this auspicious day.

The first came from my international crew in Panchgani. The most common thing I heard from them was “congratulations”. Seemed a strange word to hear from those in the community here. Some knew that I supported Obama, but this wasn’t a congratulations given to me because my candidate won the election. This congratulations had a different tone. It was the congratulations you give someone when they are part of something that has gone right. The kind you might give to a family member when the first kid graduates high school. Or maybe that you would give to Godfather at his Godson’s christening. The congratulations of communal goodwill. The congratulations of a step that symbolizes much more than a singular accomplishment, but also the many steps of the many wo supported it and paved the way to make it possible. It’s the congratulations you give when you admire something that resonates deep within, even if you don’t know why. It’s the congratulations of a new day and the hope that comes with it. It’s the congratulations given to the courageous, the changemakers and the group that has moved towards realizing their potential.

The second refrain I heard in different forms from those at home came out like this: “I’m proud of America and I’m proud to be an American.” It’s almost unfathomable to me that I could hear that statement from people in my generation. My parents and grandparents? Sure. But my peeps? Not in a million years…until today. Hearing those words demonstrated to me that something of serious consequence happened today. I’m still stunned at this comment.

I spent the afternoon working and patiently waiting for the acceptance speech to stream (a tall task in Panchgani). Above this massive outpouring of emotion and excitement I heard the voice cut through. There is work to do. Yes we can do it. A leader who asks sacrifices of his people would be a complete revolution in this era of US politics. It’s a trait of citizens in days gone that I’ve always admired. I’m on board and ready to go. In fact, I’ve been ready and working and now the ship has a new course.

Today a dream was fulfilled and I had a healthy dose of hope restored. It’s hard to know what the future holds and what the “change” will look like, but I do know that change is necessary. It’s my earnest prayer that wisdom will prevail in this administration and we will begin to build the country into something exceptional. If that happens…well then there will be even more reason for congratulations.

Something great has been achieved today. And there is a kind of purity in the air. The kind of purity that only exists alongside the promise of a new day. I’m embracing.

Election Overnight

Over dinner my Tibetan friend, Jordhen, said to me, “Today is Judgment Day in America. That makes it Judgment Night for you!”

Sure enough, here we are on the edge of political change in the States – you can’t believe the kind of attention this is grabbing over here. Every day the Times of India posts a photo of one of the candidates and puts a leader above the fold. This takes the reader to about a page of coverage on the election alone. It’s laughably biased coverage. On Sunday, there were 8 articles about the election – 5 positive on Obama, 1 negative; 1 positive on McCain, 1 negative (this excludes two editorials).

But its no real surprise, as I read a recent poll that suggested that 4 in 5 international citizens would vote for Obama over McCain. Whether they consider the repercussions of such a presidency in terms of policy is another story. But what stands fast is that Obama represents a change the world is looking for from the US.

It’s exciting to be an American in India these days. It’s almost as if people I meet are realizing what America can do and be when it’s at its best. It’s not an understatement to say that the last 8 years of policy have left the international community foggy. You might be surprised, but form my interactions I think a lot of people actually like America and believe in America. I can’t imagine what it would do for the US if Obama won this election. People come up to me pleading that I vote and for Obama. It’s a far cry from when I was here three years ago and taking endless heat for the Bush presidency and the 2004 election.

From the businessman to the nun, the teacher to the engineer, Obama has generated unbelievable enthusiasm in India. From my conversations in Pune this past week, I am sure that the US election generates more excitement than the current events of Indian politics. It’s hot and people are taking notice. I’ve heard a number of times from citizens of many countries that the world hasn’t watched a US election like this in years, maybe in history (which might not be a stretch given the availability of information in the digital age).

One way or the other, I’m breathing a sigh of relief that America is looking forward from the past eight years. I believe both candidates are capable and can lead America in positive ways. I think both will be an improvement to their predecessor in terms of quality. Still, I can’t help but feel the possibility and potential of an Obama presidency. It sounds as though there is a huge swell of optimism in the States for the change he could bring. I can only tell you that I think that hope multiplies across the pond where people are drawn to the promise of the lean man from Chicago.

If he wins, the pressure will be full on. I can only pray that he would use the unbelievable good will he’ll receive from the international community to build something new and important for the 21st century. A world vision that’s forward looking in terms of economy and environment, interdependence and real human security.

At press, the election is in the hands of the people. I’m off to bed ready to wake up tomorrow like a kid on Christmas, eager to see what’s under the tree.