Monday, September 29, 2008

A Brief History of Hair

I’m eating macadamia nut Cadbury chocolate. Someone is trying to learn the F chord. A few others are playing Uno and another is making tea. I think I’m getting green tea, but I can’t be sure. It’s Sunday night, I’m feeling relaxed after my day off and I eagerly await the arrival of the majority of those coming on Action for Life. They’ll be here at 4am this morning. Excellent.

As for this entry, it has nothing to do with that. It’s about haircuts.

My hair, at least what’s left of it, has taken on a number of styles in the years. I probably topped out in second grade when moms put me up to a so-called “spike”. It put me about ten years ahead of the same look that became popular in New Jersey when I was graduating high school (and which made you distinctly and easily recognizable as tri-state). The cut, combined with missing my two front teeth, made me a hot target for the females in Ms. Tretter’s Parkway Manor Elementary class. That all changed when I actually moved to New Jersey later that year and found that I was ten years ahead of the curve and the “spike” had lost its magical touch.

Regardless, hair grows and so did my adventures with it. Mostly parted to the side through junior high. Getting longer and stranger in high school, including a go at bleaching during my senior spring break with some guys on my baseball team (this included getting my ear pierced at a Wal-Mart…which is another story). In college I shaved my head for the first time. Actually, Andrew shaved my head. First taking it to a one blade before convincing me that I needed to go all the way. He bicked my head in Base Rich and I’m still sure that this marked the day that my hair began its official retreat for the rest of my life.

From there, it got long, it got short, I shaved it again and finally realized once and for all this spring that I will probably keep it very short for the rest of my life. (Unless I get cool like one of those old dudes who rocks a kind-of half-bald ponytail. It’s not that it’s a good look aesthetically, but it symbolizes a point that those men have reached – becoming completely detached from all need to impress anyone.)

When I got to India three years ago, I fought the inevitable haircut for a long time. There’s a lot of variables with a haircut in India. Will they understand what I want? Will they cut my ear with rusty scissors? Will they do anything…gulp…unexpected?

Most of these fears were allayed when I looked around. Almost every man in a city or town in India is immaculately kept from the neck up. Perfectly coifed hair, neatly trimmed beards and mustaches so nice that they make clean cut boys green with envy.
Once I crossed the first Indian Barber Shop threshold, I never looked back. The tidiness of the trim and the fact that they will give you a proper facial shave (with straight blade) make it an experience not to be missed on any trip to the sub-continent.

With relish, I hopped in the back of Sumo and took the 3-minute blast down to Panchgani town. Out the back door, I first bought a volleyball for a game later in the afternoon and then took it next door to the local barber shop.

The shop itself only measures about 6’ by 15’, three chairs for the chop and the regular six for the random dudes who always seem to find their way into a barber shop but don’t do anything there. The proprietor welcomed me in and offered me a seat. “How much for the haircut?” I asked. He returned with the most classic of all Indian male gestures. This being the regular head-waggle along with hand move that looks like he is gently back-slapping the air in front of him. In short, this means, “don’t worry about it, we’ll figure this all out later.” I fell for this move once before and thus the reason I asked for the cost out right. Still, I decided to roll the dice, seeing what he would give me and try to bargain post-cut.

I sat down and looked for a place to put the volleyball. It could have gone anywhere, but we oddly settled on the basket on the vanity – which he actually used for his combs and scissors and would need to access more frequently then any other part of the entire store. Surprised and slightly amazed, I focused on the work ahead hoping he would understand my single directive: “short”

He trimmed and I made small talk with one of the other patrons who wanted to take me on a tour of the neighboring town. I also took the chance to survey the room. A remarkable collection of old stuff including a radio from the 50’s, an beautiful set of drawing of popular Indian haircuts from the 30’s and a TV playing satellite movies. I sat back and enjoyed, this, one of my true guilty pleasures of living in India. I sighed out. It would be my last moment of peace.

With the haircut looking in hand, he asked me if I wanted a shave. Excitedly, I agreed. When one is born in the 80’s in America, the likelihood of having one’s face shaved by another person rates so low on the probability scale that it’s more like impossible than improbable. So when I have a chance to relive the greatness of days when men got a hot shave on the regular, I seize it like with vigor. It comes along with the same strange feeling I get to want to wear a cool three piece suit and hat and walk on the dirt-trodden street of turn of the century New York City. With a smirk of his clean-cut face, he broke out a fresh blade and went to work.

First, he smacked some shaving concentrate on my check. Wetting the brush, he began to build a lather, which eventually covered my three-day-old beard. Soon, the blade hit my face and began to scrape away the scruff. He worked it pretty fast, cleaning off my beard before doubling up for a second go-round. After, he pounded my face with some aftershave and then went in with some moisturizing lotion, massaging my face in the process. (Well, massage is a loose term that he would have used. I would use something like “getting my face smacked a bit, kneaded with lotion and then smacked a bit more.) By the end I’m knackered and he prepares his hands for round two with another bit of lotion. My face was feeling like it might actually begin to swell – as well as being smooth and shiny. This carried on for another two minutes before I finally had to ask him to stop. Surprised, he looked at me and said, “head massage?” Knowing my limits, I said, “no thanks”. As his head waggled in response (read: I am about to massage your head whether you like it or not) I leapt from my seat and reached for my roops to settle up.

I pulled out a 50.

“Is it fair price?” I asked.
He looked away from the bill.
My tour guide friend said, “You should pay what you feel is right.”
“I always pay 50 rupees for a haircut and shave. Isn’t it about right?” I said, doubting myself even though it was the truth.

The hair-man looked away again. The tour guide said nothing but gave me a gentle head-waggle (read, 50 is okay). Feeling strange, I looked at my cash situation discretely: A 50-note, two 100-notes and a 500. I didn’t want to go much higher than 50, but I saw my 100 as a weak play in a bargain for 70 rupees. With another thought I handed him the 50 and thanked him, telling him that I would be back. He looked disappointed. I took my volleyball and left.

I felt a bit bad, but I got redemptive backing from my storekeeper friend next door who said 50 was middle of the road for a cut. Still, I second-guessed. I will need to have my haircut in Panchgani again…and, it was a good haircut…hmmm…I put it out to you all. What’s my next move?

7 comments:

parker_d said...

I say drop by again sometime soon to say hello and offer some sort of compensation other than rupees. If you're going to go back and become at least a second-time customer, you may want to guarantee the same quality work you got the first time (and it *is* a solid cut and shave, judging by the picture you put up). That being said, I'm not positive on how things work in India. I mean, sure, we're all people, and money sometimes speaks louder than gestures, but this seems to be more a cultural question than a human one.

all the same, I say at least some sort of a gesture is appropriate. but that's just me.

by the way, a whole lot of people wanted me to send you their regards from the 5th year reunion in davidson this past weekend. your presence was missed, but once people heard about the work you were up to on the other side of the planet they all smiled and nodded with a knowing appreciation of your character. Sure, it's been five years and we're all a lot different, but at the end of the day we're all very much the same as well. :-)

cheers, buddy.

ps: seeing people you graduated with being responsible parents is at once heartening and disconcerting (I kept asking myself, "my god! should I have procreated since I graduated?? Sure I've accomplished things, but creating another human being?? How do I compete with *that*??")

Unknown said...

I agree with Parker!!
I would have done the some thing with the 50 - given the other choices of !00 or 500,


but a fun, kind jester would be a nice extra...not sure what that might be...could you play some music at his store one day -that might attract customers - or cook him some fun "american treat" - just thinking outloud
Mama
Ps - has it really been 5 years since graduation at Davidson????
WOW


PPS - don't worry Parker - there's plenty of time!!!!!!! Parenting is a wonderful thing...but as in most of life - timing is everything.

Unknown said...

Chris,

The whole time I kept thinking..."Shave and a haircut...TWO BITS!"

Ok, but seriously. Every two weeks, I go to my favorite barber shop (in CO) and get a hot towel shave and a haircut...it's the closest thing men have to a women's "spa day." So trust me, I more than understand the allure of a straight razor shave.

For that, I usually pay roughly $20 tip...which is just over 20% (like 23%) tip. Reason being that you want someone to do it well for you the next time.

So...

I like you mom's idea of playing music for him sometime to draw customers in...and an American playing the amazing tunes you can play, would def draw a crowd.

Otherwise, I don't know if it would be seen as insulting, but you could go in and tip him BEFORE the cut, so he sees your appreciation and trust.

Whatever you do though...under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you EVER consider giving him ANYTHING that resembles Philadelphia Eagirls gear/memorabilia/etc. Not only would it anger the barber, but it could put your life in danger.

A recent study by the United Nations reflects that 97% of Indians are New York Giants fans, while the remaining 3% are split between Patriots, Jets and Ravens fans. According to the study, the NFL apparently sent all of the Eagles Super Bowl Champion hats (from their 2005 loss) to India and gave them away. The Indians thought for several days the Eagles had won. Once they realized the truth that the iggles choked, McNabb booted on the field and the team had embarrassed themselves overall...they decided to forever hate the Eagles. It's science, man.

I digress.

Really love the music idea. Will show a genuine interest in helping the guy out too and form a bond where you may even feel a connection to this business. Talk about leadership?? That's it right there!

Love seeing your interest in helping this guy out Chris. Your kindness never ceases to amaze me.

Chris said...

These are amazing responses. I think I will take up on the music idea. Maybe I'll go down there this Sunday and see what kind of business we can round up for the old man.

In the meantime...Davidosn reunion...daggone. That's full on. I hope you a blast. I am looking forward to the day of Parker Jr., but no hustle on that one bru. Thanks for passing on word of the whereabouts. I hope it was a blast.

Mom. I'm still waiting for you to come to India some day. Then we can crank the kichen out for my stylist. What I wouldn't give for a good bowl of pasta today.

Sean, your sentiment started off so well! Ha, the only thing I brought from America to give away as presents are strange artsy turtles I bought at the Virginia Beach boardwalk. They say "Virginia Beach", so no worries on the Eagles end. Oh, and good on you for getting the shave...dude, isn't it rad? I should definitely go back soon.

Breitenberg said...

I definitely back Mom and her idea of a simple 'jester'

perhaps you could get a small group of indian children to come with you bearing a paper mâche ganesh head and stage a haircut for the great elephant himself. but this might be considerably time-consuming if not heretical, soo perhaps the ballad of the 50 roop haricut is the best vibe.

in any case I back myself having not actually taken a razor to my face in about 5 years. please just grow a beard.


the haircut is toppe bru

Breitenberg said...

I don't back that you think I was the cause of your male-pattern balding. Even though I was.

Chris said...

The ganesh haircut would probably get me tossed out of panchgani for good. But there is a new guy in the kitchen here named ganesh, so maybe I could give him a haircut?

Beard's gone for now. Just can't back it right now bru. In fact, I've just backing myself on backing away from the beard.